I Waited 53 Years to Raft the Grand Canyon. It Was Worth Every Minute.

Some bucket list dreams take a lifetime

Fifty-three years ago I stood at the bottom of the Grand Canyon and watched adventurers in boats surge through the the Colorado River’s Hermit Creek Rapids. I remember thinking, “Someday I’m going to raft that river.”

This June, at age 77, I finally did.

If you’ve ever wondered whether a Grand Canyon rafting trip belongs on your retirement bucket list, here’s what it’s really like.

It turned out to be one of the greatest adventures of my life—a combination of spectacular scenery, physical challenge, great companionship, and just enough adrenaline to make every rapid memorable.

So many ways to go

There are several ways to experience the Colorado River, from motorized rafts to private expeditions and even solo kayaking. We chose an eight-night guided trip covering the lower half of the canyon. Twenty-one guests and eight experienced guides traveled in five inflatable rafts. The full trip is about 15 days. You can take either the upper or lower half to reduce the trip, but either of those requires hiking up or down the demanding Bright Angel Trail.

Grand Canyon Raft Trip at a Glance

Trip Length	9 days (lower canyon)
Hiking Required	8.5-mile Bright Angel Trail
Best Time	Spring & Fall (or early summer)
Fitness Level	Moderate to High
Reservations	Often 12 months ahead

The adventure begins…

Our adventure actually began before we ever climbed into a raft. To reach the river we hiked 8½ miles down the famous Bright Angel Trail in temperatures topping 100 degrees, carrying what we needed for the next 9 days. By the time we reached the Colorado we stood more than a mile below the canyon rim—a descent through nearly two billion years of Earth’s history.

Next morning – waking up

The next morning the smell of fresh coffee drifted through camp as the first sunlight touched the canyon walls. Tommy, one of the guides, was strumming his guitar and walked through camp.

Breakfast today was simple: Toasted english muffins with cream cheese or grape jelly, plus fruit. After that we got organized. Our trip leader gave a short talk about the day’s plans, and we launched around 7 AM.

Rapids

The Colorado’s rapids are rated on a unique Grand Canyon scale from 1 to 10, reflecting their size and difficulty. The river is ever changing.  Before tackling the biggest ones, our guides always pulled ashore to scout the safest route. The rapids were thrilling, often wet, and a bit scary.

Sometimes the churning sections are fairly close to one another, sometimes a mile or more apart. When we entered a rapid we held onto the raft with two hands; falling out is never a good idea. 

One of the biggest white water sections, appropriately called Upset Rapids, came about 2 miles from camp. I was in the front of the boat. Within seconds the raft was climbing walls of water. Then the bow plunged into a wave and, for one unforgettable second, I disappeared completely underwater before popping back up, soaked and laughing.

In some of the longer calm stretches we jump in the river and float alongside the raft. The water’s 55 degrees was a welcome relief to the 110 of the outside air.

Between rapids, the canyon became astonishingly quiet. Sometimes all we heard was the gentle splash of the oars and the call of a distant raven. Often we all went silent to help savor the peace.

Stops along the way

As there is everyday, we stopped along the river for various excursions and side hikes.  Today we climbed to an incredible waterfall fed from springs thousands of feet above. We stood in the falling torrent for one heck of a shower, then cooled off in the pool below.

There were two options to get to the waterfall: a strenuous 2 hour hike over rough ground and a narrow ledge, or a shorter hike directly up from the river. We took the former, and it got my pulse going.

After that we had lunch on a rocky shelf under welcome shade. Just above our lunch spot were ancient grinding holes left by Native peoples who once lived in the canyon—a reminder that people have lived along this river for thousands of years.

All around us we marveled at the astounding rock formations created, destroyed, and built again over billions of years.The various layers came in infinite variations, colors, and heights. Nature was all around us, like the morning we floated by a family of mountain goats grazing beside the river. One of them was an albino.

Finally it was time to find our camp for the night. The trip leader decides on the many possibilities, depending on availability and our progress. Tonight’s is like many others; a long sandy bank with plenty of flat spots to set up our tents.  Unloading the boats, which carry everything needed for a 15 day journey, was a group effort. We formed human chains to pass our tents, personal bags, tables, sleeping pads, the groovers (mini portapotties),water purification equipment, food, and cooking supplies from the boat to the beach.

By late afternoon someone would announce, “The bar is open,” one of the happiest phrases of the day. The beer and soft drinks we ordered before the trip were soon cooling in the river. Dinner tonight was hamburgers and bratwurst, with options for special diets. Considering everything had been packed into rafts for days, the meals were remarkable.

After dinner there is always some kind of entertainment. Tonight there was a singalong led by Griffin, Morgan, and Grant (2 guides and 1 guest) on guitar and ukulele. On other nights one of the leaders would read a story or poems about the river, and then tell us what to expect the next day.

As I drifted off to sleep under a sky filled with more stars than I’d ever seen, listening only to the Colorado River sliding past our camp, I realized something.

Some bucket-list dreams are worth waiting for.

This one exceeded every expectation. It was equal parts untamed wilderness, physical challenge, and unforgettable adventure.

I spent decades thinking there would always be time to raft the Grand Canyon. Fortunately, I was wrong only about the timing—not the opportunity.  My  only regret about the trip is that I waited 53 years to do it! But that is one of the great things about retirement – you have the time and the resources to follow your dreams.

Can someone in their 70s do this trip?

I was 77 on this trip. It was demanding, but entirely manageable with preparation. The Bright Angel hike is strenuous and the heat is real—but with preparation and good health it was absolutely achievable. Several people in our group were in their 60s and 70s. If you’ve dreamed of rafting the Grand Canyon and are in good physical shape, you can enjoy it.

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If You Go

Book early.
The best launch dates often fill a year in advance.

Don’t put it off.

It is a challenging adventure – best to be young or in very good shape.

Train beforehand.
 The Bright Angel trail is a brutal downhill (or uphill) in brutal heat. It and many side hikes require good balance, stamina, and strong knees.  Walking hills, climbing stairs, and carrying a daypack will make the experience far more enjoyable.

Pack light—but smart.
Sun protection, good river sandals, quick-drying clothing, and a lightweight rain jacket quickly become your best friends.

Go with family or friends if you can.
Sharing incredible moments makes them even more memorable.

Talk with everyone.
One unexpected pleasure was getting to know people from all over the country. By the end of the trip, strangers felt like old friends.