Ireland’s Miami Beach: Retirement in Northern Ireland

November 18, 2025 — it didn’t take too long for us to notice that the folks are sturdy here in beautiful Portrush, Northern Ireland. The temperature of the water was 52 F. (12 C.), about the same as the outdoor temperature, and cloudy with a fair breeze. Fifteen or so women in bathing suits were up to their knees, splashing in the cold and rolling surf. Occasionally one would plunge into a wave, laughing and shrieking, then make a few strokes before emerging to applause. Asking a local about it, we found that the women were part of a club (and not the only one!) that takes this breathtaking dip every day of the year.

Such a Beautiful Coast

Portrush, along with a few other neighbors like Portstewart, is the retirement capital of Northern Ireland. It particularly attracts folks from Belfast. Like many people in the States or Canada who fall in love with a vacation destination, many retirees spend much of the year or even relocate here permanently to enjoy its beautiful beaches, rocky coasts, and colorful dunes. 

People coming here on holiday rent or own the small manufactured homes (we would call them trailers) that are clustered by the dozens just a way back from the wide beaches. Most of these neighborhoods close for the winters. Permanent retirees to the area find homes in town or just outside. 

Note: There are 2 countries on the Irish island: Northern Ireland (part of the United Kingdom (UK) in the northeast), and the Republic of Ireland (a member of the European Union (EU), which is far larger. Coming by land, the border appears to be invisible.

Golf, Beaches, Walks

Although the big attractions are the wide, wide beaches and the pounding surf, golf is very big here too. (Royal Portrush was the site of the 2025 Open Championship won by Scottie Scheffler – Americans refe to it as the British Open). Unlike in the U.S., Irish golf courses are open to the public (by contrast, try to get a tee time at Augusta or Pine Valley if you are not a President or CEO of a Fortune 500 company!). Residents of these towns can join a fabulous golf club like Port Stewart and pay annual dues less than 1,000 pounds, subsidized by the high greens fees paid by golfers from around the world. These golfing tourists get to play some of the top courses in the world, thrilled by the undulating fairways, towering dunes, and sloping greens of the true links courses that abound on this peninsula. 

The Weather

It rains a lot in Portrush, particularly October through January, but it is often just cloudy with a light rain. Winter temperatures are not that severe, with snow a rarity. Winter low temps are about 34 F. and summer highs around 67 F. It is cloudy much of the time with occasional light rains. High winds can be expected. Days are very long in the summer, it gets dark early in the winter.

If You Come

It is easy for anyone to get a 3 month visa within Northern Island. If you are a citizen of the United Kingdom there is no need for a visa. People born in Northern Island can be dual citizens with the Republic of Ireland. Unfortunately for citizens of the European Union, moving here permanently has become trickier.

Real estate prices vary by location and size. A one bedroom flat might cost 150,000 pounds, while a modern condo in a gleaming new building could approach 1 million. Waterviews are plentiful, are as homes within a few steps of the beaches.

Crime is virtually non-existent. There is frequent train service along the coast and elsewhere in Ireland. The Portrush Medical Centre provides health care to the area.  While culture in town is limited, the trip to bustling Belfast can be made in just over an hour. According to locals, “The Troubles” were never that bad in this part of the island. Elsewhere, particularly in Belfast, there were decades of horrible battles between Irish Republicans/Nationalists (mostly Catholic) Loyalists/Unionists (predominately Protestant), and British security forces.  If you want to watch a great TV series on the subject (on Britbox), watch Blue Lights, set in nearby Belfast. Say Nothing is another great one.

As a tourist town Portrush has many restaurants. Amici Ristorante, an Italian eatery, is one of the best. For a taste of local color, journey down to the Harbour Bar and sample the Guinness. Speaking of spirits, the Bushmills Inn in is a cozy place to stay, offering a wonderful restaurant along with fine Irish whiskeys.

Nearby is the Giants Causeway, which, along with the Cliffs of Moher, is one of the top natural attractions on Ireland. The soaring basalt pillars defy description, and attract tourists from around the world. The local currency is the British pound sterling. It is very peaceful here, with amazingly friendly people. 

One harmless thing to be wary of – the accents of the people who grew up here are very hard to understand for folks from other places. Like elsewhere in Great Britain, one drives on the left hand side of the road, which can be daunting for Americans and those from the continent.

(Many thanks to golfing pals Jeff and “Big Arv” Kinder for their helpful corrections to this article)!

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